Below is the total kit I used. As you can see, there aren't many tools required for this job at all.

You can use either the 6mm spanner or an adjustable wrench. The spanner would be best suited, however not everyone has a 6mm one.

The car should be be lifted on 2 Jack Stands at the front, but if you need more place to work, then lift the rare of the care too.

I personally leave the actual car Jack / Trolley Jack still raised under the car, close to where I work, just to provide me with some insurance incase any of the Jack Stands fail!

For more details on lifting the car on Jack Stands, please refer to this page.

You can see the clutch Bleeder Vent Screw below. This is covered by a rubber dust cap (not in this the photo). All you will be doing is loosening this and then tightening it.

If you have a plastic tube, stick it over the hole, so you don't make a mess when you bleed the clutch.

First top up the brake fluid in Step #6 to the Max line, because you will loose some fluid in the next step and if it drops too low in the reevoir, you will get air bubbles in the system.

Next all you need to do is loosen the vent screw a little bit (a few drops will trickle out), and then ask the 2nd person to press and hold the clutch fully, at which point a lot of fluid will squirk out. Now tighten the vent screw and ask the 2nd person to let go of the screw. Remeber your car will be on jack stands and you are under the car, so the 2nd person will need to press the clutch with their hand, which isn't that easy to hold, so you better be quick.

Once you have tightened it, you could do it a couple of times more (only if you think you need to).